Throw Back...

This post is long…but I haven’t written since I got here!

I’m not sure what I’d do without Rodrigo and his mother. Tiredness has consumed me this past week. Long days mixed with a constant state of: what is this person saying – what is going to happen next – is that person talking to me – has left me drained. Learning Spanish has become a lower priority for these initial days, as strange as that may sound (considering Spanish skills would erase the majority of my stress). This week I hope to reenergize and devote many hours to the language. For now, I have settled into talking with Rodrigo, who is completely fluent.

My conversations with Rodrigo expand his already impressive knowledge of the English language. My dialogue with Leslie differs greatly! We both try to piece together the limited vocabulary we have. I’m learning how far I can go with hand gestures and pointing. Friday night, Leslie took me to the discotheque, Gollum. It’s one of two in Calama. The discotheque reminded me of 1994. The DJ did not play one song made since 1990 and the club-goers danced with barely a shuffle. Women apparently do not dance in groups, so pairs of men and women danced 2-3 feet apart while the singles waited on the sidelines for someone to ask them. Compared to Leslie and I pointing at the dance floor, signaling toward the bathroom, and simulating drinking movements…Rodrigo and I discussed the meaning of “throw back” in regards to a People magazine article and impending autopsy of a Chilean student murdered in Washington, DC. I look forward to learning more Spanish so that Leslie and I can have more in depth conversations. Rodrigo works as a wonderful translator for us – but it would be nice to speak directly.

Yesterday, we had a late dinner (5 pm – it is usually served at 2 pm) of American cuisine. The three of us went to the grocery store and explored the aisles for necessary ingredients. I prepared roasted rosemary (romero) chicken (pollo) and rosemary potatoes (papas) as we snacked on bread with Philadelphia cream cheese. I think/hope Rodrigo enjoyed learning how to make new dishes and sampling something from the US. This morning I will make an oreo cheesecake. Rodrigo said that he had heard of cheesecake, but has never tried it. The ingredients for that were a bit trickier – graham crackers were not available, hence the addition of oreos. For lunch, we will have a Marilou staple: tuna on whole grain bread (something not very popular here – white bread is the most common) with tomato and lettuce accompanied by Lay’s Americano Corte (aka potato chips). There was much confusion over the word chips because chips translate to fried potatoes here.

A food side note for Bob: The Hellman’s mayo is similar here, except its yellow and sold in aluminum bags. Tomato sauce and many other products are packaged in Capri-Sun-looking containers. The ingredients are not listed on the back, but I’m assuming its just food dye that makes is a bright yellow. You will also be happy to know I had stomach at the school. Leslie and Rodrigo do not eat it – but its popular here as a lower cost meal. The stomach was prepared in a stew and was very tough. Luckily, there were potatoes and vegetables in the stew as well…the other teachers were divided about liking the stomach. I think it will be my last time eating cow’s stomach. Other different things...dried milk is popular. There is liquid milk too in the refrigerator section, but dried milk and chocolate seem to be the most common way to make hot chocolate. Salt and Pepper are not a pair here. They do not use our version of black pepper much here. I needed to search for it in the spice aisle. Instead of peanut butter or nutella, they have dulce de leche – a caramel-like substance. This is used in almost every baked good and to spread on crackers or toast.


Leslie prepared tea at 11 pm after her family visited to fix the hot water heater. Her sister, brother-in-law, and two nieces are extremely nice. The two girls (around 2 and 7 years old) are both learning English. The older girl will visit soon for hot chocolate and some English dialogue! Because the main meal is during the day, tea consisted of fresh bread, ham, Philadelphia cream cheese, jam, mayo, and tea. During meals, Chileans like to sit for an hour or two to talk. This I enjoy very much because it reminds me of our family dinners in Valley Forge.

We sat until 1 am talking about subjects ranging from the dangers of nightclubs to the experience of raising a child in a single-parent household. Leslie laughs and tells the story that her husband went for cigarettes and never returned. Rodrigo explains that this is not the entire story – but a funny way of summarizing it. Leslie (through Rodrigo’s translation) added that she enjoyed living with just Rodrigo. She can invite anyone she wants to the house at anytime. She said now that I was staying here – I could invite my father, my friends, anyone to the house and we wouldn’t have to worry about someone else’s opinion. Leslie supported Rodrigo by working in a dentist’s office for 20 years. The job paid well and allowed her to buy this home and take care of her family. Her main goal in life is to see Rodrigo succeed. She said she could die only when she knew he was a success. The conversation continued with topics such as family values, dreams, and Chile. While there are so many differences about Calama, many things remain the same as the US. Rodrigo and Leslie exude kindness. I am thrilled to spend the next four months getting to know them. I also look forward to Rodrigo visiting me in the United States to practice his English more!

The teachers at the school have also welcomed me with open arms. I went to a dinner at the school Friday night for the teachers at 9 pm. The dinner celebrated Father’s Day (apparently there was a conflict in June). The female teachers prepared dinner and made presentations for the men. The most interesting presentation involved a Columbian woman. I’ve learned that many Columbian women come to Calama to “work”….as strippers and more. The woman clothed in a tank top and mini skirt poll danced for the group…something that I can’t imagine happening in our public school system!!!! Then the men played a pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey style game with an Adam-and-Eve style woman outline (the donkey) and leaf (the tail). The dinner was quite normal and fun otherwise. I made friends with Javier the music teacher who offered to help me learn to play the guitar if I will practice English with him. He’s also trying to learn Chinese…but alas, it seems I only know one language. Javier explained that the town talks negatively about him because he has two children with two women. He explained that the second woman left him and Calama. I’m not sure of the entire story…I’m sure I will find out. I need to double check – but I believe a law allowing divorce is a recent addition here in Chile.

More about Calama…it is a city in the desert with a river. This makes it very populated (150,000) and very expensive, even though the majority of people are in a lower income bracket. The river is…pretty much dried up. There is a pool of stagnate water filled with algae and moss. I live very close to the river and look forward to having the volunteers over to bbq in the park (bbqs are very popular in Chile – they are called Asados). The two main attractions here are a town center and shopping mall. The Calama Mall is similar to a mall in the States. My school is only a few blocks from the mall. The town center has many stores and a handful of restaurants. Calama is a dangerous city at night. Gun and drug crime are high due to its proximity to Bolivia. Oscar, one of the English teachers, explained to me that higher than the murder rate – is the suicide rate. Rodrigo also commented on the same thing when I asked how guns were used in crime. The volunteers have been advised by their host families not to leave the house after 4/6 pm. This fact adds to how ecstatic I am that the house has internet! Everything in Calama also has a layer of dust. It is incredibly dry (an understatement considering it is actually the most arid desert in the world). My nose has started to bleed a bit, but I think that I will adjust soon enough. Friday I purchased my first over priced bottle of body lotion…one of many I predict!

The school is the best in Calama for high school (media). I will find out my schedule on Monday (how many classes – how many students – what times, etc). I will also help with the debate team. During my first practice with them on Thursday, I was shocked to hear such discourse including the term: globalization. Rodrigo is on the debate as well and seems to speak the best English. Last night, he asked me the difference between like and as. With most of his questions, I’m very happy I have an English degree and can answer – this one stumped me! I could give examples and generally define the idea of comparisons…but to actually tell him a concrete difference between like and as…I will need to do some research today! Back to the school…The students wear uniforms and seem to be well behaved. The school is very safe and is completely gated. I’ve been introduced to many of the classes and have found the two most popular questions are: Do you have a boyfriend? Do you like George Bush? After the first class, I’ve learned its best to say yes I have a boyfriend and no I do not like George Bush. Otherwise – the students think I’m 22 and they are 18 – and George Bush could be the most hated man in Chile. The students are all quite pleased when they learn that I’m an Obama supporter! Phew, thank goodness I’m a liberal!

Well I’m off to make cheesecake – can’t wait to write more soon! Please feel free to comment here or send me an email! We are also going to Chiu-Chui – a small town outside of the city! I will write all about it this week!